Saturday, March 20, 2010

"I FEEL AT HOME HERE IN SIEM REAP"

SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
Temperature: 27 Degrees Celsius
Track of the day: "Real World" Matchbox 20
"Rattana we're just entering Siem Reap," Alecs whispers over the phone as our bus passes a landmark that Alecs and I remember to be a mere five minutes from the bus stop, "see you soon." We quickly unload our luggage from the bus and wait a few minutes for Rattana to arrive. Back in March when Alecs and I were here in Cambodia, Rattana was our tuk-tuk driver and we quickly made good friends with him and have since kept in touch. As I anxiously wait for Rattana to arrive, wondering if he knew where this exact bus terminal was located my questions are answered as I see him literally running over to us. "That's him," I say, elbowing Alecs as he approaches. We make quick introductions and head to the hotel Alecs and I fell in love with last time - Golden Banana. It's been about 10 months since Alecs and I were last here but within moments of our arrival several of the staff members have recognized us. Rattana is no longer a tuk-tuk driver but rather the supervisor of a Khmer restaurant and we have agreed to have dinner there tonight. "I love this place," I say as we wait on the quiet street in front of the hotel under illuminated Chinese lanterns, while children ride bicycle's past us and the hotel dog rubs against me for a scratch behind her ears, "I feel at home here in Siem Reap." Alecs nods his head in agreement as the dog moves over to him for a belly rub. Moments later Rattana's friends arrive in a couple tuk-tuk's to escort us to Thany Khmer Restaurant. Although we are excited about eating at the restaurant where Rattana works, we assume this restaurant will be a random hole in the wall frequented by mostly Khmer. However we finally arrive at the restaurant we are greeted by a smiling and proud Rattana who guides us up to the traditional styled eatery under a bamboo thatch roof with romantically dim lighting. Rattana has instructed his staff to cook a set meal for us to his exact specifications, which means not-so-spicy (mostly because of me). The meal includes a dish called Amok - the national dish of Cambodia and a food we had tried back in March and thoroughly did NOT enjoy. Both Alecs and I give each other a knowing look out of the corner of our eyes but continue eating nevertheless. My first mouthfull is sensational, the deep rich flavour of the amok spice mixed with the creamy coconut milk and local spices is something I had not expected. Alecs flashes me a quick smile and we finish the amok in a matter of minutes and continue onto the next course. The night goes on with plenty of laughs and smiles before we retreat to our wonderful hotel for the night.

"I hope Rattana and Ravovine get along," Alecs says nervously the next morning over breakfast. Ravovine was Mom and Dad's guide to the temples when they first came to Cambodia and is meeting up with us this morning. A few moments later a friendly and very smily man approaches us and Mom and Dad jump to their feet. Ravovine introduces himself and moments later Rattana arrives. As he walks towards us Rattana stops in his tracks and imediately recognizes Ravovine and the two make like old friends. In fact they played in a volleyball league together and soon we are all headed off towards Angkor Wat thinking about what a small world it sometimes is. "We're almost there," I tells Sam after we purchase our week long Angkor Wat temple passes on the back of Rattana's tuk-tuk. Moments later we round the long dirt road beside the massive temple moat 190 meters wide, within the moat is the outer wall and as we all walk towards it the grandeur of the temple dwarfs us and I imagine what it might be like to have been the King so many centuries ago. Ravovine gives us a mini-history lesson throughout the entire complex, from the extensive bas reliefs, to the intricate carvings, and nearly everything else. "I am learning so much more this time around," I say to Alecs after Rav. explain a particularly interesting story about Vishnu. Standing at the reflecting pond where the awe inspiring temple shimmers on the water Alecs and I can hardly believe we are here once again. The day continues on with more temples including one of Alecs' favorites- Preah Khan. This temple does not have the voracious vegetation that has overrun much of Ta Phrom but still remains largely overrun by the forest. Unlike Angkor Wat, which is completely restored and magnificent in that way, Preah Khan is a maze of partially restored corridors and rooms where the adventurous soul can take flight. Sam gets his first taste at what made Alecs and I fall in love with these temples. Winding through fallen stones and climbing over fallen walls we explore the extensive temple before continuing onto the next. Exiting the temple, we pass one of the magnificent trees that has become one with the temple, pushing it's massive roots straight through the stones, engulfing parts of the outer wall in it's entirety. "Rav. is hilarious eh?" I say to Sam and Alecs as we sit in the back of the tuk-tuk heading to our final temple of the afternoon. Rav. is something of a comedian and has a funny anecdote at nearly every moment and it makes the experience all that much better. Rattana and Ravovine are always laughing while the rest of us are busy exploring the temples and it brings a smile to both me and Alecs. We arrive at Pre Rup, a temple with many many STEEP stairs that Rav and Rattana both decide not to climb. We crawl up the impossibly high stairs to the top where we are rewarded with panoramic views of the Cambodian countryside. "Going down is going to be harder than coming up," I say aloud looking down the stairs. Alecs and Sam nod their heads and we begin our descent.

Back at the hotel Sam, Alecs and I join Mom and Dad on their outdoor balcony for a few beers. Earlier in the day Sam and Alecs discovered they had inadvertently worn the same t-shirt and Mom and I goad Dad into wearing his so we can get a good laugh and of course an ever-lasting photo!Today was one of those days that seem like perfection, the kind of day you never want to end and tomorrow will hopefully be one of the same!Until next time so long,
Alecs and Meg in Siem Reap.

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