"I FEEL AT HOME HERE IN SIEM REAP"

SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA

Temperature: 27 Degrees Celsius

Track of the day: "Real World" Matchbox 20

"Rattana we're just entering Siem Reap," Alecs whispers over the phone as our bus passes a landmark that Alecs and I remember to be a mere five minutes from the bus stop, "see you soon." We quickly unload our luggage from the bus and wait a few minutes for Rattana to arrive. Back in March when Alecs and I were here in Cambodia, Rattana was our tuk-tuk driver and we quickly made good friends with him and have since kept in touch. As I anxiously wait for Rattana to arrive, wondering if he knew where this exact bus terminal was located my questions are answered as I see him literally running over to us. "That's him," I say, elbowing Alecs as he approaches. We make quick introductions and head to the hotel Alecs and I fell in love with last time - Golden Banana. It's been about 10 months since Alecs and I were last here but within moments of our arrival several of the staff members have recognized us. Rattana is no longer a tuk-tuk driver but rather the supervisor of a Khmer restaurant and we have agreed to have dinner there tonight. "I love this place," I say as we wait on the quiet street in front of the hotel under illuminated Chinese lanterns, while children ride bicycle's past us and the hotel dog rubs against me for a scratch behind her ears, "I feel at home here in Siem Reap." Alecs nods his head in agreement as the dog moves over to him for a belly rub. Moments later Rattana's friends arrive in a couple tuk-tuk's to escort us to Thany Khmer Restaurant. Although we are excited about eating at the restaurant where Rattana works, we assume this restaurant will be a random hole in the wall frequented by mostly Khmer. However we finally arrive at the restaurant we are greeted by a smiling and proud Rattana who guides us up to the traditional styled eatery under a bamboo thatch roof with romantically dim lighting. Rattana has instructed his staff to cook a set meal for us to his exact specifications, which means not-so-spicy (mostly because of me). The meal includes a dish called Amok - the national dish of Cambodia and a food we had tried back in March and thoroughly did NOT enjoy. Both Alecs and I give each other a knowing look out of the corner of our eyes but continue eating nevertheless. My first mouthfull is sensational, the deep rich flavour of the amok spice mixed with the creamy coconut milk and local spices is something I had not expected. Alecs flashes me a quick smile and we finish the amok in a matter of minutes and continue onto the next course. The night goes on with plenty of laughs and smiles before we retreat to our wonderful hotel for the night.

"I hope Rattana and Ravovine get along," Alecs says nervously the next morning over breakfast. Ravovine was Mom and Dad's guide to the temples when they first came to Cambodia and is meeting up with us this morning. A few moments later a friendly and very smily man approaches us and Mom and Dad jump to their feet. Ravovine introduces himself and moments later Rattana arrives. As he walks towards us Rattana stops in his tracks and imediately recognizes Ravovine and the two make like old friends. In fact they played in a volleyball league together and soon we are all headed off towards Angkor Wat thinking about what a small world it sometimes is. "We're almost there," I tells Sam after we purchase our week long Angkor Wat temple passes on the back of Rattana's tuk-tuk. Moments later we round the long dirt road beside the massive temple moat 190 meters wide, within the moat is the outer wall and as we all walk towards it the grandeur of the temple dwarfs us and I imagine what it might be like to have been the King so many centuries ago. Ravovine gives us a mini-history lesson throughout the entire complex, from the extensive bas reliefs, to the intricate carvings, and nearly everything else. "I am learning so much more this time around," I say to Alecs after Rav. explain a particularly interesting story about Vishnu. Standing at the reflecting pond where the awe inspiring temple shimmers on the water Alecs and I can hardly believe we are here once again. The day continues on with more temples including one of Alecs' favorites- Preah Khan. This temple does not have the voracious vegetation that has overrun much of Ta Phrom but still remains largely overrun by the forest. Unlike Angkor Wat, which is completely restored and magnificent in that way, Preah Khan is a maze of partially restored corridors and rooms where the adventurous soul can take flight. Sam gets his first taste at what made Alecs and I fall in love with these temples. Winding through fallen stones and climbing over fallen walls we explore the extensive temple before continuing onto the next. Exiting the temple, we pass one of the magnificent trees that has become one with the temple, pushing it's massive roots straight through the stones, engulfing parts of the outer wall in it's entirety. "Rav. is hilarious eh?" I say to Sam and Alecs as we sit in the back of the tuk-tuk heading to our final temple of the afternoon. Rav. is something of a comedian and has a funny anecdote at nearly every moment and it makes the experience all that much better. Rattana and Ravovine are always laughing while the rest of us are busy exploring the temples and it brings a smile to both me and Alecs. We arrive at Pre Rup, a temple with many many STEEP stairs that Rav and Rattana both decide not to climb. We crawl up the impossibly high stairs to the top where we are rewarded with panoramic views of the Cambodian countryside. "Going down is going to be harder than coming up," I say aloud looking down the stairs. Alecs and Sam nod their heads and we begin our descent.

Back at the hotel Sam, Alecs and I join Mom and Dad on their outdoor balcony for a few beers. Earlier in the day Sam and Alecs discovered they had inadvertently worn the same t-shirt and Mom and I goad Dad into wearing his so we can get a good laugh and of course an ever-lasting photo!Today was one of those days that seem like perfection, the kind of day you never want to end and tomorrow will hopefully be one of the same!Until next time so long,
Alecs and Meg in Siem Reap.

"THIS TAKES 'POOL DAY' TO ANOTHER LEVEL"

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA

Temperature: 33 Degrees Celsius

Track of the day: "Before the Worst", The Script

"This bus is great," I say as Alecs and I sit on the front seats of the Mekong Express Limousine Bus to Phnom Penh. Our comfy seats include a tasty snack of pastries as well as water and a guide - all for just $12 and aside from the overnight bus in Laos, this is our best experience yet. We arrive in the capital city 1/2 an hour ahead of schedule and dodging a swarm of tuk-tuk drivers we head up the street to find our own and head to the Pavillion Hotel. Before we left Canada my parents booked us a hotel as a goodbye present that is many many many steps above the $6, $7/night places we've been staying in. We walk through a heavy wooden door to the enclosed complex that seems worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh. Large tropical trees loom over a huge crystal blue pool surrounded by private little nook's with overgrown fern, banana and palm trees towards reception. We check-in to our room, a massively oversized two bedroom place on the second floor with a large balcony overlooking the street behind the surrounding wall. We have a T.V., fridge, air-conditioning, hot water and free drinking water - what more could we ask for. "I think I'm going to sleep well tonight," Alecs says testing out the soft mattress and flipping through the T.V. channels. "TFC (the Filipino Channel), they have TFC," Alecs exclaims, giddy like a school boy about the idea of watching Filipino T.V. I roll my eyes at him and suggest we have dinner before he becomes glued to the screen. It's almost 8PM and after a six hour bus ride neither of us has the energy to go out so we eat at the restaurant next to the pool. We crash shortly after dinner, exhausted from a day of traveling and happy to be in such a comfortable place. 

We both sleep in the next morning, but when we finally wake up we excitedly pack and head to reception. Today we are checking into another room, one that was fully booked yesterday but available for the next three nights. We wait a few minutes as our new room is being cleaned

more excited than words can explain. "Okay, your room is ready," one of the staff says as she hands us the room key. We beeline it to our haven - a room similar to the one last night with one distinct difference. We walk through a large set of doors to the left of our room where we fund a lush patio with a sun-bed, table and chairs and the reason for our excitement - a

 6x3 meter private pool. "Move over hun," Alecs says leaping into the water with his swimsuit on in record time. We both dip into the blissfully cool freshwater pool and begin doing laps, diving and acting like kids in a candy shop. After very little discussion we both agree to a pool day spent in a tranquil private one we can call our own.  "This takes pool day to another level," Alecs says floating on his back watching the clouds go by. "Let's test out our snorkels," I say tossing them in the water for Alecs. We both strap the 

snorkels," I say tossing them in the mask and snorkel on and excitedly try them out. These 'dry snorkels' were a Christmas gift from my parents and they certainly live up to their name. We try everything to get water in them - submerging and inhaling, splashing, pouring water over them - nothing gets in and we happily continue using them. We use our new waterproof camera as well trying many different poses at the bottom of the pool - goofing around until the sun begins to fade. "I guess we should go out for dinner," I say finally after spending nearly five non-stop hours 

in the water. Alecs nods his head and

we get dressed to search for a tuk-tuk and a restaurant. We head to a small pizza shop on the riverbank and settle in for a cheap cheese pizza and some Angkor Beer. Small children wander through the many restaurants selling newspapers, bracelets, books, sunglasses and various other trinkets. A cool breeze blows in from the river and touts of tuk-tuk's gather together conversing and keeping an keen eye for any tourists who might need a ride. After dinner we wander up the riverbank, enjoying the view and scanning for a travel agency. "This one here," Alecs says spotting a large sign outside 'Phnom Penh Travel Co,' "Mekong Express bus from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville," he adds walking in. We book two tickets to the beach of Cambodia before happily setting off back to our hotel. "I think it's time for a night swim," Alecs says flipping the light switch on by the pool. Four spot lights illuminate the surrounding wall creating a soft glow and one lights the pool floor making it a romantic and wonderful atmosphere for a swim. Quietly, we wade into the water and float on our backs gazing at the vibrant stars above. "This is amazing," I say to Alecs, "it's still hard to believe we

are actually here," I add. Alecs smiles knowingly and two hours later we are almost asleep floating in the pool. "I think we should get to sleep," Alecs says, "especially if we actually plan on accomplishing anything tomorrow," he adds. We walk back to the room and I fall asleep quickly while Alecs stays up for a few more hours watching 'Singing Bee,' on The Filipino Channel. 

Tomorrow will be a grim day as we learn the horrors committed by Khmer Rouge during the Pol Pot reign.

So long for now,

Alecs and Meg in Phnom Penh

"I THINK WE NEED MORE ANTS"

SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA

Temperature: 31 degrees Celsius

Track of the day: 'Meat Shake' - Ugly Ducklings

"I hope there's not too many people on this tour," I say to Alecs as we sit in the naturally abundant guesthouse lobby waiting for 'The Villa Siem Reap' to pick us up at 7:50AM. Today we are heading to the Cambodian countryside for a 'Day in the Life of a Villager," tour which benefits the community. We first heard of this program from a brochure we picked up at the Singing Tree Cafe (a little cafe that supports good causes for Cambodians) and since it was next

door to Good Na Restaurant we decided to just book it. We are unsure what today will bring, but hopeful that we will have another exciting experience. A man introduces himself as Lim and leads us to a van waiting with two people - the extent of tourists on this tour. We both grin excitedly about being part of a small group and make friendly conversat

ion with the two Australians. "So today we will visit a small village 18 km outside of Siem Reap," Lim tel

ls us as the van weaves past two motorbikes and a tuk-tuk. Our host family is one of the poorest in the village and some of the proceeds go directly to them while the rest helps build bio sand water filters in the village. We take a right turn and the paved concrete roads becomes a bumpy dirt one that curves past rice fields and straight into a sprawling village. We stop at the village leaders house where we can see the inner workings of one of the donated bio-sand water filters coloured in purple for 'The Villa.' Two 'Lexus's' are summoned to take us further afield and they arrive moments later looking strangely like an Oxcart and Cattle-Wagon. We climb onto the bamboo wagon with a local villager and his son for the 15 minute bumpy ride. We arrive at our family for the day's home, a falling apart one room hut built of  bamboo and palm leaves. "This morning we will help this family by sewing the roof panels together with palm tree leaves and bamboo," Lim says laying a bamboo rug across the ground for us to sit. "This is exciting," I say to Alecs, "we're actually learning something practical." We learn to sew the leaves onto the bamboo rods creating panels for both the roof and exterior walls and do our best to help out the family. I prick my finger slightly as I thread the bamboo needle through a folded leaf. "I think I need a bamboo thimble," I joke getting back to work. It's nearing the middle of the day and it's time for us to cook our indigenous lunch. The host mother returns, baby on hip with a freshly caught fish from the lake that is to be lunch. "Your job," Lim tells me, "is to cut the lemongrass and garlic and mash it with fish paste and ants." Ants? I wonder to myself, I must have heard him wrong. I am given two large meat cleavers and a stone slab to begin slicing the veggies. "Here's the

ere's the fish-paste," Lim says placing the flakes of fermented fish that are as potent as one might be able to imagine. "Mash it until it becomes a paste," he adds while killing the fish that is to be lunch. Lim tells us he made a wish for the fish to become something better than a fish in his next life and thanked him for providing our lunch. "I love Buddhists," I say to Alecs. Alecs and the Australian guy follow Lim to a nearby tree with a bucket of water and return with a few handfuls of now-drowning red-ants. "He just stuck his hand in a nest and when they climbed up his arm he submerged it in water," Alecs says recounting their collection of the ants. A few moments later he comes out of the hut with a cup of ants spilling them onto my mixture of fermented fish paste, lemongrass and garlic. Trying to convince myself this is a rewarding experience that I should feel lucky to be doing I chop the ants up until they are no longer recognizable. "I think we need more ants," Lim says pouring a mixture of ants and maggots onto the slab. "Mmmmm

g a mixture of ants and maggots onto protein," Alecs says as I chop everything up, imagining they are M&M's. When the paste is good and pureed Lim scoops it into a banana leaf tossing it in the open flame below our cooking fish. The four of us carefully crawl into the narrow room with our host mother and her three children where we sit in a circle patiently awaiting and fearing our meal. We spoon rice into our bowls

and add the fish, ant and maggot paste in very small portions. "Here goes nothing," I say putting a teaspoon of the mixture to my mouth. Alecs waits in anticipation as I put in in my mouth, roll it over my tongue and swallow. "Salty," I say not liking the food at all but not feeling as disgusted as I might have thought. Alecs tries it as well and we both agree we cannot taste anything but the salty fish paste. A couple ladies from the village come over to see what's going on and score a few bites of our meal. Lim also brought along sandwiches, fruit kabobs and banana bread in case we didn't want to eat the meal we prepared. "How do I eat this," an older lady asks Lim in Khmer, referring to a tuna sandwich he gave her. Lim laughs and explain she needs to take the plastic wrap off and eat it with her fingers. Our host mom sits cross-legged breast-feeding the youngest girl while her youngest boy begins nodding off, head bobbing as he tries to stay awake. I offer some of the fruit kebobs to the family who is sitting beside me and Alecs passes down some banana bread. The kids relish in the sweet tastes of both, an exciting break from rice and ants. One of the women, a mother of 12 (2 are already dead from bad water) who came to visit talks to Lim in Khmer about Alecs. "She think you are Cambodian," Lim translates, "but she says Cambodian men are never with Caucasian women," he adds. Alecs laughs, "no I'm from the Philippines," he says and the women all nod at the word Philippines. They continue to tell us that they think 'white' women do not like Asian men because they never see them together - it's usually the other way around. We laugh together and talk about cultural differences and oddly the many similarities before getting back to work on the roof.  Once we have completed enough panels for the roof we are taken to the village primary school a short walk away. There aren't enough teachers for the four classrooms where children sit 4 or 5 to a desk. The principal of the school converted two of the concrete government donated classrooms to a library and an office for himself meaning some 40 children are outside in a bamboo hut. "The principal is not in today," Lim tells us as we walk past his empty office that could be utilized as a classroom. We shake our heads and a female teacher walks from one classroom to another teaching both rooms at 

the same time. Little girls and boys, excited to see foreigners wave at us, wanting to see their photo's on the camera screen. I snap a shot of three little boys at the back of the classroom, reaching my hand through the window to show them their photo. They all giggle at the sight of themselves in the camera, making our day. We stop and listen to children reciting Khmer words after the teacher, their little voices carrying through the air - the children of the future. The last stop on the trip is a tour of a silk making factory nearby which teaches poor villagers to learn the trade and become productive members of society. Our guide takes us past the fields of trees used to feed the silk worms before taking us to the actual worms. The male silk worm mates with the female for around 12 hours and then dies, after that the female gives birth to baby worms and proceeds to die also.

Before dying, the worms create a silk cocoon which is eventually processed into fine scarves, clothing, tablecloths and so much more. Following a small path we walk to the factory where we see the SEVERAL stages of production involved in making one silk item. 

Steps Involved in Making a Silk Scarf

1. Grow trees to feed silk worms
2. Feed and breed the silk worms
3. Allow them to create a cocoon
4. Boil the silk worm cocoon
   
5. Take the worm out of the cocoon
6. Unwind the cocoon
7. Clean the now unwound silk string
8. Feed the string onto a man-powered machine creating a reel.
9. Die the string the desired colour using things like sap
10. Manually create a pattern in the string by tying plastic in specific areas before dying it
11. Manually use a wooden machine to thread patterned clothing (how they manage this part I cannot understand)
12. Sell the final product

"Really makes you appreciate the work that goes into making one of those scarves," Alecs says as we leave the factory. "Ya, they actually don't charge enough given the labour involved," I add. A hoard of young Khmer women stand on the opposite side of a small pond from us giggling 

profusely and Alecs and I look at each other perplexed. We hear some music coming from the pond and as we get closer we can see a young boy (probably mid 20's) lip sinking to a song as a production crew films him. "He is a pop star in Cambodia," Lim tells us seeing the strange look on our faces, "they are shooting a karaoke video," he adds. We both laugh and spend a few minutes watching him and not understanding the loyal fan-following he has acquired. We are dropped off at the hotel, next door to Good Na Restaurant. Before heading there for dinner we pick up a beautiful outfit for Rattana's 6-month old daughter as well as a Khmer-English dictionary and a 'Guide to tourist attractions in Siem Reap' for him. When Rattana drops us off at our hotel a few hours later we present the gifts to him, thanking him for being such a great driver and guide. Tears well up in his eyes signaling our time to leave and we head back to our room to pack our bags. 

Tomorrow we are taking a 6-hour bus ride to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, and then we will head to a beach for a couple days before returning to Siem Reap for four more nights.

Until next time so long.

Alecs and Meg in Siem Reap

Ps. Some photo's were corrupted on our SD Card so there are no pictures from the school. Two videos survived and will be posted tonight - we're running out of time at this moment.